Yosemite National Park – arguably one of the most spectacular National Parks in the United States is literally right in my backyard when I come home. We sometimes forget how amazing the things that are closest to us can be and for me Yosemite is a prime example of that.
“Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.” – Ray Bradbury
There is a reason for everything and always a story (or two) explaining all that you see. Those stories often are passed along from generation to generation and give life to what we see. Yosemite’s scenery is no exception to this rule.
Visiting Yosemite you are surrounded by incredible natural wonders like Yosemite Falls, Half Dome and El Capitan. Even the casual visitor (if anyone can be considered casual in this off the beaten path park) who is just passing through simply cannot miss these prominent and overpowering features of Yosemite.
Every rock formation that we see today exists because of its unique granite structure. As glaciers ground their way through the area, these particular “super-hard” rocks were better able to withstand the powerful glaciers than the softer rocks that would eventually be pulverized by the moving ice. Water remains the life-blood of Yosemite, and every feature of Yosemite Valley exists because of the action of ice and flowing water.
“It is easier to feel than to realize, or in any way explain, Yosemite grandeur. The magnitudes of the rocks and trees and streams are so delicately harmonized, they are mostly hidden.” – John Muir
Half Dome is a prime example of granite that has withstood the formative action of the ancient glaciers. It is such a prominent and unusual feature of the valley, that over the years it has become the accepted icon of Yosemite.
Half Dome at 8,852′ elevation, is the large dome with a flat northern face found at the eastern extremity of Yosemite Valley. For a long time called “South Dome” research suggests that the members of the Mariposa Battalion gave the mountain it’s current name at the time they were there, but for the early residents of Yosemite this iconic rock was known as “Tis-sa-ack”.
The Yosemite Indians told legends that not only explained things as they saw them, but told a story with a moral…a lesson. The legend of Tis-sa-ack is a perfect example of this, and for many is a favorite of the Yosemite legends.
The Legend Of Tis-sa-ack (Half Dome):
Many, many generations ago, long before the Gods had completed the fashioning of the magnificent cliffs in the Valley of Ahwahnee, there dwelt far off in arid plains an Indian woman by the name of Tis-sa-ack and her husband Nangas. Learning from other Indians of the beautiful and fertile Valley of Ahwahnee, they decided to go there and make it their dwelling place. Their journey led them over rugged terrain, steep canyons and through dense forests. Tis-sa-ack carried on her back a heavy burden basket containing acorns and other articles, as well as a papoose carrier, or hickey. Nangas followed at a short distance carrying his bow, arrow and a walking staff.
After days and days of weary traveling, they at last entered the beautiful Valley of Ahwahnee. Nangas being tired, hungry and very thirsty, lost his temper, and without good reason he struck Tis-sa-ack a sharp blow across the shoulders with his staff. Since it was contrary to custom for an Indian to mistreat his wife, Tis-sa-ack became terrified and ran eastward from her husband.
As she went, the Gods looking down, caused the path she took to become the course of a stream, and the acorns that dropped from her burden basket to spring up into stalwart oaks. At length Tis-sa-ack reached Mirror Lake, and so great was her thirst that she drank every drop of the cool, quiet water.
When Nangas caught up with Tis-sa-ack, and saw that there was no water left to quench his thirst, his anger knew no bounds, and again he struck her with his staff. Tis-sa-ack again ran from him, but he pursued her and continued to beat her. Looking down on them, the Gods were sorely displeased.
“Tis-sa-ack and Nangas have broken the spell of peace,” they said. “Let us transform them into cliffs of granite that face each other, so that they will be forever parted.”
Tis-sa-ack as she fled tossed aside the heavy burden basket to enable her to run faster, and landing upside down it immediately became Basket Dome; next she threw the papoose carrier, or hickey, to the north wall of the canyon, and it became Royal Arches. Nangas was then changed into Washington Column, and Tis-sa-ack into Half Dome. The dark streaks that still mar the face of this stupendous cliff represent the tears that Tis-sa-ack shed as she ran from her angry husband.
As you gaze at Half Dome today you can see the tears, those black streaks running down the dome face and almost hear her sobbing.
But let’s talk about that breathtaking hike……
Visiting Yosemite can be an amazing yet frustrating experience. The millions of visitors to the park often create traffic jams, overfilled parking and on some days long delays at the entrance stations. Just compare the numbers – in 1906 there were 5,414 visitors to the park, in 2017 that number was 4,336,890. Yep, almost 4.5 million visitors, and according to the National Park Service 75% of the parks visitation is between the months of May – October.
I generally try to stay away from the park during those months as pushing through crowds of people to enjoy the outdoors isn’t really my cup of tea. But it was Mother’s Day and I was looking for a good day hike to share with my son. My first choice was the Mariposa Grove to visit my favorite tree – the stately ancient Giant Sequoia known as the Grizzly Giant. But the grove has been closed for the last two years for a massive restoration project and would not reopen until June 15th. After reading numerous reviews and web pages I settled on the Sentinel Dome and Taft Point hike and I was rewarded with what is now one of my all-time favorite hikes.
“Great things are done when men and mountains meet; This is not done by jostling in the street.” -William Blake
The trailhead can be reached along the Glacier Point Road, and get there early as the parking area is limited in size. Getting an early start also means the views can be experienced with just a few other adventurous hiking visitors. I recommend doing a loop trail starting off by heading for Sentinel Dome.
Hiking to the top of Sentinel Dome at 8123’ is by far the easiest way to experience the miles and miles of Yosemite National Park views without having to fight the crowds in the valley. The hike wasn’t difficult and the fairly steep climb to the top of the dome was moderate if you take it slow. Once we made it to the top, my jaw hit the floor, the panoramic views are humbling and certainly worth every bit of the climb.
Looking west, you’ll see down Yosemite Valley and beyond to the Merced River canyon and, on clear days, all the way to Mt. Diablo in the coastal mountain range. To the north you see Yosemite Valley, including El Capitan and Yosemite Falls. To the east, you see Nevada Fall, Half Dome and Clouds Rest, and an amazing assortment of snow covered High Sierra peaks.
This is Mother Nature at its finest, Sentinel Dome is truly an awe-inspiring, spiritual experience.
“Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery.” – John Ruskin
Once you can tear yourself away from the magnificent Sentinel Dome views its time to head back down the trail. Not wanting to waste the day we decided to take a detour and make the extra two mile hike to Glacier Point. A caution – it is all downhill from Sentinel Dome which means you are going back up to return to the loop trail. Still it was worth the hike and the effort.
A trip to Yosemite National Park is hardly complete without a stop at Glacier Point, the 7,214 foot perch that offers the visitor unimaginably panoramic views over Yosemite Valley. Glacier Point is one of those iconic Yosemite locations and yes, you can get there by car but what fun would that be? No matter how you get there you would be crazy not to check it out on a visit to the park. As the trail dropped down into the parking lot it was time to join the spring visitor crowds and take a detour into the store for a quick ice cream snack!
The view from Glacier Point includes several notable Yosemite Valley Features. To the north is Yosemite Falls, the longest waterfall in North America, which Glacier Point actually looks down on. Curry Village can be seen on the floor of Yosemite Valley over 3,000 feet below. To the east, rising 1,600 feet higher than Glacier Point is the iconic Half Dome. Behind the dome, the Merced River pours down Nevada Fall and Vernal Fall. The panorama is breathtaking.
“You are not in the mountains. The mountains are in you.” -John Muir
Glacier Point was inhabited by the Glacier Point Hotel from 1917 to 1969 and the McCauley’s Mountain Home from 1872 to 1969. The hotels were constructed out of wood and burned in a wildfire in the summer of ’69. While the hotels were never rebuilt, Glacier Point still receives close to a million visitors each year and remains one of the more popular points of interest in Yosemite National Park. After we had our fill of the view and the crowds it was time to hit the trail again heading for Taft Point.
It was midday when we made it to Taft Point and the crowds had thickened with folks making the 1.5 mile hike from the parking area to the point.
A railing welded into the rock marks the lookout on Taft Point. The point is named after William Howard Taft, the 27th president of the United States who visited the park in 1909. Perhaps the president was looking for views similar to nearby Glacier Point without all the crowds. This is still what you will find today as it is not quite as easily accessible as Glacier Point but the views are certainly just as spectacular. Fissure cracks seem to appear out of nowhere and drop hundreds of feet toward the valley floor. It goes without saying, don’t forget to watch your step. This is also a great place to stop for a late lunch after the days worth of hiking.
From Taft Point the hike back to the car is only about 1.5 miles. Our total days hiking came to just under 8.5 miles, a good trek for the day and a wonderful way to spend Mother’s Day with my son is such a grand location.
The Sentinel Dome / Taft Point trail in my mind offers perhaps the most incredible and accessible views of Half Dome, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley and the High Sierras in the entire park. Get there early, pack a lunch, take your time, soak in the views and enjoy the journey.
“You’re off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting, so… get on your way!” -Dr. Seuss
Absolutely beautiful pictures of Yosemite Dana!