Sevilla (or Seville as it is known in English) is one of the most beautiful and enchanting cities that I have yet to visit. Many believe that this amazing city could only have been the work of a god and legends say that Sevilla was founded by Hercules – a Roman hero and god, famous for his strength and for his numerous far-ranging adventures.
Sevilla certainly has a curious history; it is España’s (or Spain in the English language) fourth largest city and Andalusia’s most important port. Founded by Hercules, shaped by the Romans, ruled by the Moors, and finally conquered by the Christians, the 2,200-years-old capital of Andalusia is an architectural marvel, with a wide variety of styles spanning from Mudejár and Gothic to Baroque and Spanish Renaissance. Sevilla today has many monuments, a vast heritage, and is known for its soul.
“I would sooner be a foreigner in Spain than in most countries. How easy it is to make friends in Spain!” – George Orwell
The buildings and monuments, although amazingly beautiful are not the city’s only attraction.
It is a lively and joyous city that inspires sensations and passions in all who visit and live there. We discovered that the residents of Sevilla are wonderful open and very friendly people. They tend to talk a lot and very fast – a challenge to this beginning Spanish speaker. But when we were drawn into a local pub during the world cup finals they welcomed us into the crowd and between their broken English, Debora’s Mexican Spanish and my really poor imitation of the language a great time was had by all.
“Spain is a fascinating mix of people, languages, culture and food, but if there is one thing all Spaniards share, it’s a love of food and drink.” – Jose Andres
The history of Sevilla has witnessed the passage of various peoples, with a Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla) that is the world’s largest Gothic edifice, a symbol of Christianity and the Reales Alcázares de Sevilla, built under the Moors; both of which are classed by UNESCO as World Heritage sites. As we had only one and a half days in this magical city we had to choose carefully what we would be able to see and these were the two monuments that rose to the top of the list along with the Plaza de España and of course a Flamenco show.
A not to be missed beautiful location in Sevilla is the Plaza de España, originally designed and built as the ultimate symbol and the most ambitious project of the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition World’s Fair. The initial idea of holding a World Fair in Seville was promoted in 1909 with the aim of opening and modernizing the city. It was looked at as the perfect occasion to achieve civil works, thus improve employment, promote the tourism, enhance the image of Seville and strengthen relationships with American countries. The Fair was initially going to be inaugurated on April 1st, 1911 then delayed to 1914 but World War I (1914-1918) and political issues between Morocco and Spain delayed it further on. It was finally held from May 9th, 1929 to June 21st, 1930.
Around the Plaza de España there is a series of 48 tiled alcoves or benches, each representing a Spanish province. A province is a political division of each region, equivalent to states in the US. The benches are ordered alphabetically and each one has the name, coat of arms, map and some historical facts. In spite of the state of some of the tiles, they are absolutely spectacular for their artistic value and their representations of the history of Spain. A beautiful encyclopedia of España made of ceramic tiles!
“In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.” – Federico Garcia Lorca
When you visit Sevilla, everyone tells you to visit the Alcázar of Seville (Reales Alcázares de Sevilla), the royal palace originally built by Moorish Muslim kings. After visiting this UNESCO World Heritage Site, I can see why everyone raves about it. It’s absolutely stunning!
The Alcázar is one of Andalucia’s gems, a beautiful architectural masterpiece whose history tells the story of Seville. This seemingly exquisitely designed palace has, in fact, been added to continuously over the years.
The Alcázar is a Moorish fortress, built in 712 as tribes from North Africa swept into southern Spain en route to a conquest that extended as far north as the Pyrenees. They would remain for more than 500 years, administering Spanish lands and leaving a strong imprint on Spanish culture and art.
Christian armies led by Ferdinand III conquered the city in 1248, part of a drive that pushed the Moors deeper into southern Spain before stopping at Granada, their final toehold in Spain until the 15th century. The new rulers retained the Alcázar as their seat of power and the palace as their residence.
It was to Granada that Peter I, king of Seville in the 14th century and descendant of Ferdinand, turned after an earthquake leveled the original Muslim palace inside the Alcázar. Between 1364 and 1366, Muslim architects and artists from the region worked on a new palace that would adhere to Islamic aesthetics while featuring Western elements.
The outcome was a hybrid style, an outstanding example of mudéjar architecture (a style of Spanish architecture from the 13th to 16th centuries fusing Romanesque and Gothic styles with Arabic). The heavy portraiture of Gothic interiors is replaced by bright geometric designs, interweaving patterns and plaster latticework so delicate that it often resembles lace — while incorporating Western touches such as slender colonnades and pointed arches.
The palace’s gardens are equally enchanting. The materials used, such as tiles, and many features, water channels, fountains, water spouts, etc. give them a special Moorish character.
Visiting the Alcázar feels like you’ve left Spain and landed in Morocco and Northern Africa. It is a very cool juxtaposition of cultures and architectural style. It is in the melding of these many different styles that give the Alcazar such interesting history and amazing beauty.
The whole grounds and buildings of the Alcázar are otherworldly and I can understand why the Game of Thrones series chose to use it as a set for Season 5 of the series. Today, it is still used by the royal family as their official residence in Seville making it the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe.
“Dance as the narration of a magical story; that recites on lips, illuminates imaginations and embraces the most sacred depths of souls.” ― Shah Asad Rizvi
What would a trip to Spain be without a visit to see a Flamenco show?
The most widespread and accepted hypothesis is that flamenco originated in Andalusia as a result of the coexistence of Muslims, gypsies, Castilians, immigrants, Jews and local people. African influences were also incorporated, coming from the black Africans who passed through Andalusia and also from the Caribbean who immigrated to Spain. Thus, flamenco is the union of different races and cultures; a harmonious mixture of different lifestyles and proof that variety is the spice of life.
“Dance is the hidden language of the soul of the body.” – Martha Graham
A phenomenon that evolved through diverse cultural history Flamenco was a testament to the joys as well as persecution of nomadic peoples. The emotions expressed in the music are timeless and can be felt and understood by anyone who is lucky enough to hear it. In its purest form, flamenco is a solitary song, often accompanied by rhythmic hand clapping, feet stomping and dance. By the 19th century, the guitar also became a powerful component in flamenco tradition.
While there were many options available for Flamenco we chose a more traditional show. Casa de la Guitarra is a Flamenco Cultural Center located in a house of the XVIII century in the heart of the Barrio de Santa Cruz (old Judería), only a block from our hotel. It was a more intimate experience in a small venue where we were close up and personal with the performers. The hour-long show introduced the audience to the main styles of flamenco in Seville through its three disciplines: dancing, singing and guitar.
Our last stop in Sevilla on our final morning in town was the Catedral de Sevilla one of the most famous Roman Catholic cathedrals in Spain and truly awe-inspiring in its scale and majesty. This Gothic cathedral built to demonstrate the city’s power and wealth was constructed over the remains of what had previously been the great 12th-century Almohad mosque.
“”Let us build such a church, that those who come after us shall take us for madmen,” said the old canon of Seville, when the great cathedral was planned. Perhaps through every mind passes some such thought, when it first entertains the design of a great and seemingly impossible action, the end of which it dimly foresees. This divine madness enters more or less into all our noblest undertakings.” – Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
The cathedral’s construction lasted over a century, from 1401 to 1506. After its completion, Catedral de Sevilla superseded Hagia Sophia as the largest cathedral in the world, a title the Byzantine church had held for nearly a thousand years. Today it is the largest cathedral in the world because the two largest churches, the Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida and St. Peter’s Basilica, are not the seats of bishops – therefore not classified as Cathedrals.
The total area of the Cathedral is at 11,520 square meters (124,000 square feet). The building is 135 meters (443 feet) long and 100 meters (328 feet) wide, with a ceiling height of 42 meters (138 feet). The crowning glory of the Seville Cathedral is the Giralda Bell Tower 104.1 m (341.5 ft) in height and one of the most important symbols of the city, as it has been since medieval times.
Cristobal Colón (Christopher Columbus) is buried here, after his death in 1506 Columbus was buried first in Valladolid Spain, then taken to Monasterio La Cartuja in Sevilla. The remains were again moved to what is now the Dominican Republic before Spain lost control and was moved to Havana Cuba before returning to rest in Seville after Cuban independence in 1898 during the upheavals surrounding the Cuban revolution in 1902.
As we had only a limited amount of time a tour of the Cathedral wasn’t in the plan but we were able to spend a little time inside the Cathedral and it was enough to impress and convince me that this is the most beautiful building I have ever seen. In the main body of the cathedral you see the great box-like structure of the coro (choir), containing elaborate 15th-century choir stalls that fill the central portion of the nave. We were lucky enough to be there when the choir was practicing and it was certainly magical.
Our visit to the cathedral wasn’t enough time to take one of the tours and explore more of this gem but I knew as we stood under the amazing high decorated ceilings that I would be back.
And yes it’s true, I have already started planning another trip to Spain for 2019. I will have that chance to better explore the cathedral, Sevilla and many other of España’s wonderful sights – and I will be bringing along my Sister and my Aunt on the journey! And I can’t forget my new addiction to walking, yes another Camino will be in store for 2019.
What I do know is that España has captured my heart and I will never be the same……
I’m calling PBS and CNN to suggest they tap you as a replacement for Bourdain or Houser. Start an a-la-Rick Steves journal and tv series. You are so talented in your text and photography! Go big.
You are so kind!
Dana: so fun to travel with you. This sounds like a truly enchanting city. I stayed in an Andalusian hotel in Albuquerque that I thought was so magical & beautiful. Safe travels as you journey on. Blessings, K
Dana, Awesome blog post.. Your detailed description lets us feel like we were there enjoying the experience with you.