To best learn a language you have to also immerse yourself in the culture of the country. When you are truly interested in the people, their customs and want to see the country is when people will open up to you and provide not only great information but also a language lesson or two! Many folks that I came across in my time here in Guatemala automatically assumed that I spoke English (and rightly so, I don’t exactly blend in here) but when I greeted them in Español or responded to their greeting in the same I was nearly always met with an enthusiastic response.
“Do you know what a foreign accent is? It’s a sign of bravery.” – Amy Chua
Sol Latino Spanish School does a great job of helping us as students immerse ourselves into the culture. Living with a local family is a great start but they also offer a wide variety of experiences – five days a week the students have a choice of an afternoon (or all day in the case of Saturday) activity. The field trips were great, it gave us all an opportunity to get out into the community and use local methods of transportation (remember the Chicken Busses in my last post?) as group with one of the teachers as our guide. But just as fun were the películas (movies) in Español (with English subtitles) and the Salsa and Cumbio dance classes. I have probably forgot all of the dance moves but would do it again in a second, as it was great fun and good exercise.
Of course I took advantage of nearly all of the filed trips offered, it was the best way to get to know the country and the culture. So just in case you are planning a trip to Guatemala and want to spend some time in Xela (which I highly recommend) here are some of the sights to see…….
Tour por el centro histórico – Historic Center of Quetzaltenango
The city of Xela has the oldest colonial buildings in the country since it was here when the Spanish Conquistadors first settled. A walking tour of the city wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the El Calvario Cemetery. The entire thing is incredibly lush and green with colorful, stacked tombs dotting the hillside all overlooked by the massive Santa Maria volcano with lazy clouds hovering around the sides. In the middle of the second largest city in Guatemala the cemetery is a little surreal but if I were of the mind to be put into the ground, this would be the place to be.
In El Calvary one cannot help but notice an interesting memorial with an even more interesting story.
In the 1920s an Eastern European gypsy family immigrated to Guatemala and toured the countryside in the family circus. In true Romeo and Juliet fashion, Vanushka became enamored with a gentleman in the audience during one of her performances. The young gentleman, Javier, was from a prominent family in the area and followed suit with Vanushka and her beautiful performance.
After the show Javier caught up with Vanushka and they spent the night talking and walking around the circus grounds. This continued for the rest of the week and by the end, they confessed their undying love for each other. It was no secret on the circus grounds that this was happening. How could you miss two young love birds walking hand in hand all night long?
Javier’s family quickly caught on to what was going on. Javier refused to leave Vanushka’s side. They were in love and he was determined to see it through. In a rage, his father sent him to Spain to finish 4 years of university. With little authority, Javier had to leave.
When wishing Vanushka farewell the morning of his departure, she had to be ripped from his arms as his chaparone refused to let him stay any longer. He looked out the window and thought how the next 4 years of his life were going to be difficult ones. He could not wait to return to Vanushka’s arms. Over the next few weeks Vanushka wasted away. She refused to sleep or eat.
One night, with one last tear, she silently passed away from a broken heart. Her family buried her in the El Calvario Cemetery where you can find her tomb today.
Legend has it that many years later a woman in a similar situation came to Vanushka’s tomb to weep and vent her sorrow. Shortly after her “talk” with Vanushka she was reunited with her one true love. It is said that if you leave flowers and a message of your sorrow for Vanushka that she will reunite you with the love in your life. There are hundreds of messages written all over her tomb (in multiple languages) and with each one you can feel a pang of sorrow and the hope for a future love.
“I have found the paradox, that if you love until it hurts, there can be no more hurt, only more love.” – Mother Teresa
Almolonga
Almolonga is a humble-looking, flood-prone town of 25,000. But in evangelical circles, Almolonga and its giant carrots have taken on mythical proportions with a story of redemption.
A few decades ago, locals say, the produce here was piddling, the jails were full, and drunks stumbled through the streets. Now there’s peace, harmony and lots of produce. The earth is good as evidenced by the miles and miles of crops. In a place where 80% of the residents plant and harvest crops Almonga has become famous for its vegetables. And all of the town is involved as the work is all done by hand including the watering which is accomplished by using a large wooden scoop to throw the water from the irrigation channel over the growing plants.
At the lower end of the village the road passes through Los Baños, an area with natural hot sulfur springs. The name Almolonga comes from “lugar donde mana o brota el agua”, or “place from where the water springs forth”, due to the thermal springs that bountifully exist in the area. The mineral rich water is heated by Volcan Santiaguito, and carried to the region by underground passageways.
The mineral baths of Almolonga are a favorite of the local Indigenous Mayan people for medicinal bathing. People from all over Guatemala come to Almolonga for the quality of the baths so we obviously had to try them out after our walk through town.
Trama Textiles in Xela
The co-op was formed in 1988 as a direct result of the devastating Guatemalan Civil War after many members’ husbands, fathers, and brothers were killed or “disappeared.” Organized into 17 weaving groups, from five regions in Guatemala’s western highlands, TRAMA’s mission is to create sustainable fair wage employment for the women of Guatemala, to enable them to honorably support their families and communities, and to preserve and develop the cultural traditions of the Maya people through the continued practice of traditional weaving arts.
In their own words:
“In 1988, after some of the most devastating years of Guatemala´s civil war, our association was formed. The civil war was a time when most of the men from our communities: our grandfathers, fathers, brothers and sons, disappeared.
During this difficult time, we came together in our communities, and decided to use our skills as weavers to support our families, and ourselves and formed the cooperative. The cooperative gave us a sense of purpose, and we started to work together to create new designs, choose colors, and dye and weave our textiles. Little by little, we began to grow stronger and started to look towards a better future.”
100% worker-owned TRAMA provides work for over 400 women and their families, across five regions in Guatemala’s Western highlands. The weavers are paid for their work up front and they are guaranteed a fair wage for what they produce. This is critical for many of these women who need to earn an income to support themselves and their families, in a region where paid work is hard to find. We did our part and helped support the organization as well as found some great things to take home for our friends and families.
Cerro El Baúl
On the eastern side of Quetzaltenango rises Cerro El Baúl, a medium sized lava dome that measures 2,650 m above sea level. The elevation is a bit deceiving when you consider that the city itself is 2,330 m high, but who am I to rain on a lookout point’s parade? The point is, if you’re in search of a vista point over the second largest city in Guatemala, this is the hike for you.
The hike up El Baúl is pretty straightforward: just take the dirt path from the road as soon as you see the sign welcoming you to this popular local’s spot and tourist attraction. On the plus side, once you find a clearing above the trees the views from the top are excellent. There’s also a park not far from the summit that features a giant stone sculpture and crazy 4-person cement slide that provided the perfect venue for a downhill race (provided you’re not too concerned with things like personal safety or a wet and muddy backside as it had just rained the night before).
We also enjoyed watching local families as they celebrated with raucous games including a fun looking form of balloon stomp. All and all a great way to spend a Saturday hanging with other students, a good hike and enjoying the views of Xela.
Las Fuentes Georginas
These thermal-water baths with healing properties are located very near Xela; with waters flowing from the furnaces of the Cerro Quemado volcano. A weekend visit to Las Fuentes Georginas is a good way to relax and also to experience a locals “hot” spot. At first glimpse, the misty hot springs that make up Las Fuentes Georginas may not look particularly spectacular. After all, since their discovery around the turn of the 20th century, these natural thermal baths have become something of a tourist sensation: first for Guatemalan residents, and then inevitably for all kinds of weary travelers visiting Quetzaltenango. The hot springs are located in a scenic location up in the mountains above Xela with lush vegetation and a view of Volcan Zunil in the distance. Travelers tip: get there early and get in your soaking as the crowds arrive later in the morning and afternoon and the pools can get quite crowded.
San Andres Xecul
Our afternoon journey to San Andres Xecul has to have been one of my favorites in Xela. The Church of San Andres Xecul has an unusual dome painted in colorful stripes like a beach ball, but the highlight is the bright yellow west facade, on which some 200 painted sculptures of human figures, angels, monkeys, fruit, corn, quetzal birds dance across the building in Technicolor chaos.
It is said that the overall design recalls the huipils worn by local women, and the two jaguars at the top may represent the twin heroes of the Mayan scripture, the Popol Vuh. Definitely a clash of religious cultures the Catholic and Mayan beliefs overlap and but heads at the same time in this small community. The village of San Andres Xecul is an important center for traditional Mayan religion and to accommodate this they have constructed El Calvario, a smaller (but just as colorful) church on the hill above the main church. In the space next to this Mayan worship center smoke can often be seen rising from outdoor Mayan altars as they perform centuries old healing arts and spiritual traditions.
For me, one of the highlights of this activity was the transportation – walking, joining the locals on the Camionetas (Chicken Buses), then climbing into the back of a pickup truck with metal racks encircling the bed for an exhilarating ride up the hill to the church. What great fun for this traveler from California where riding in the back of a pickup is illegal and definitely not a mode of public transportation!
“I love church buildings, particularly cathedrals, and I like living in spaces that remind me of music or evoke that creative energy.” Laura Mvula
Salcajá
Salcajá is best known for the Church of San Jacinto, founded in 1524, which was the first church built in Central America since it was one of the first places invaded in the Spanish conquest of Guatemala. It is also known as La Conquistadora (“The Conqueror”) presumably because of the time period and its religious influence on the indigenous population. After 490 years and several earthquakes, the building still is in relatively good condition. While the church was not open when we visited, we were welcomed at the adjoining museum and a walk around town wrapped up the afternoon before hopping the Camioneta back to Xela.
Lago de Atitlán
On my own I took a long weekend (yes, I played hooky from school for a day) and visited Lago de Atitlán. From everything I had read this was an incredibly beautiful part of Guatemala and they were certainly correct. I liken it a bit to Lake Tahoe in my home state of California except the mountains surrounding the lake are all volcanoes giving the impression that they could erupt at any moment.
A vast expanse of deep blue water ringed by imposing volcanoes, Lake Atitlan is one of the most impressive natural wonders in Guatemala drawing visitors from around the world.
“Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.” – Aldous Huxley
Huxley wasn’t wrong. From the shuttle ride down the hairpin-laden highway, you and every other first time visitor will crane your neck through gaps in the trees to catch a glimpse of the incredible vista. As the road continues downward, it suddenly opens up to a perfectly blue lake studded with volcanoes.
Lake Atitlán was formed inside an enormous volcano, which erupted 84,000 years ago. The lake is now overlooked by three smaller volcanoes – Volcán Atitlán lies on the southern rim of the caldera, while Volcán San Pedro and Volcán Tolimán watch over Santiago. With a maximum depth of 340m, it is the deepest lake in Central America.
“A lake is the landscape’s most beautiful and expressive feature. It is earth’s eye; looking into which the beholder measures the depth of his own nature.” – Henry David Thoreau
Lake Atitlán means “at the water/the place where the rainbow gets its colors” in a Mayan language called Nahuati and is located in the Solola department of northern Guatemala about 3 hours away from the capital Guatemala City and the same from Xela in the opposite direction. It is a place where the local Mayans still wear their colorful traditional clothing. Each color, pattern and design represents which village they are from and it is clear that the majority of them could not imagine wearing anything else.
In recent decades hordes of Western hippies have also come to call the lake home. Borrowing spiritual philosophies from lakeside shamans they declare Atitlán one of only three ‘energy vortexes’ in the world. The others are, naturally, Machu Picchu in Peru and the Pyramids of Giza.
The lake is one of Guatemala’s top tourist destinations, and it is easy to see why. Around the circumference of Atitlán are several villages, each offering something different to every visitor. Public lanchas (small boats) crisscross its surface ferrying locals and tourists alike. Each of the Mayan villages around Lake Atitlan has its own personality and a list of things to do. Because of this, one of the most popular things to do in Lake Atitlan is going village hopping to experience what each of these unique villages has to offer.
My home base while at the lake was at a cool Airbnb in the very touristy lakeside town of Panajachel (Pana for short). It was an easy to get to base for lake exploration and the balcony view from my room over the lake was awe inspiring from the daytime expanse of water and volcanos to the nighttime fireworks over Pana. From there I was able to book a tour to see four of the lakeside villages.
The first stop was in San Marcos a small town that some say has a special energy. It has become the hippy center of the lake with massage, reiki, yoga, meditation & alternative therapies, as well as plenty of vegetarian & organic restaurants. San Marcos was my favorite of the villages we would visit with its colorful murals painted along the village walkways and laid back vibe.
The second stop was a pretty little town, San Juan la Laguna that seems to give hope for other villages that may have lost their way. Wide streets, with some stalls selling weavings and craft goods, San Juan works to retain a true local feel. Visitors can take in local activities such as the women’s weaving cooperative still using traditional techniques and all natural dyes.
San Pedro is known as the backpacking party town of the lake. If you are into the party scene this is probably the place for you. As you exit the lancha you find yourself walking between the two docks along a narrow alleyway surrounded by bars & restaurants. It is no wonder that many travellers make a beeline for San Pedro for the party scene.
Our last village was to Santiago the largest of Lake Atitlan villages and one that seems to have the strongest indigenous identity, with many of the local women wearing huipiles (a traditional loose-fitting tunic) embroidered with colorful birds or flowers. As mentioned earlier, each village has its own color pattern and design of clothing. For Santiago masses of colorful birds adorned their colorful clothing. Although Santiago has its fair share of tourism, it still retains a local charm, one that we could see as we wandered around the market in the Parque Central and enjoyed watching the preparation of their local church for an upcoming ceremony.
These days all around Lago de Atitlán the Maya, the Spanish, tourists and the hippies live side-by-side with relatively little friction. It was different than my Guatemala home in Xela, much more touristy but a beautiful location and a definite place to visit in Guatemala.
On my last evening in Xela, I photographed some of the city at night and I walked through the streets wistfully wishing I could stay longer. This city and my experiences there constantly lived up to my imaginings, while in Guatemala I felt at times uncomfortable and out of place but mostly calm and engaged in my life. I made new friends, relied upon the kindnesses strangers, found my way around without GPS and learned the language sometimes painfully one word at a time. I guess I’m still sorting it all out in my head but I can truly say that learning is a lifelong process, for the young and the young at heart.
With that I departed bid farewell and departed Quetzaltenango. My next stop would before leaving the country had to be Tikal National Park – for what is a visit to Guatemala without spending time in what is known as one of the major sites of Mayan civilization.
“Whether one is rich or poor, educated or illiterate, religious or non-believing, man or woman, black, white, or brown, we are all the same. Physically, emotionally, and mentally, we are all equal. We all share basic needs for food, shelter, safety, and love. We all aspire to happiness and we all shun suffering. Each of us has hopes, worries, fears, and dreams. Each of us wants the best for our family and loved ones. We all experience pain when we suffer loss and joy when we achieve what we seek. On this fundamental level, religion, ethnicity, culture, and language make no difference.” – Dalai Lama
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