“Machu Picchu revealed itself in front of me, like the reason’s existence, above delirium and it’s inhabitants’ absence and that of its creators.
The mystery of its origin and silent tenaciousness, unwound for me the lesson of order the human being can establish through the centuries, with his or her joint will power….” – Pablo Neruda
The longevity of Inca (or Inka in modern Quechua language) sites throughout Peru becomes startlingly clear as you drive around the country and see example after example of stone terraces and walls thousands of years old dotting the landscape. The Inkas used advanced farming techniques such as canals and ditches to irrigate their crops in Peru. As you travel the country examples of the ancient stone terraces built for these crops are all around you a testament to the incredible stonework of the Incan people.
More than 7,000 feet above sea level in the Andes Mountains, Machu Picchu is the most visited tourist destination in Peru. A symbol of the Incan Empire and built around 1450AD, Machu Picchu was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007 it was also on the top of my list of places to visit in my lifetime. Those mysterious yet awesomely beautiful photographs of a stone city nestled between the high peaks in the Andes have captured my attention and my imagination for decades. My visits over the years to the southwestern Native American sites and the Mayan ruins in Central America were just preludes leading up to this trek to the famous city of Machu Picchu.
“Few romances can ever surpass that of the granite citadel on top of the beetling precipices of Machu Picchu, the crown of Inca Land.” – Hiram Bingham
Machu Picchu is one of the few Incan masterworks, which has not suffered excessive alterations, in spite of the passing of time and natural phenomena. Try as you might, use every adjective, to describe the beauty and majesty of this site and it would not even come close – you have to see it for yourself.
“For the first time since dropping out of graduate school, I remembered an unpleasant weekend spent struggling to comprehend the philosopher Immanuel Kant’s explanation of the difference between calling something beautiful and calling it sublime. Nowadays, we throw around the word ‘sublime’ to describe gooey desserts or overpriced handbags. In Kant’s epistemology it meant something limitless, and aesthetically pleasing entity so huge that it made the perceiver’s head hurt. Machu Picchu isn’t just beautiful, it’s sublime.” – Mark Adams, Turn Right at Machu Picchu
Our route to one of the most famous Incan sites – Machu Picchu – included a stop at the massive fortress of Ollantaytambo an Incan multifunctional village site. This is one of the few places where the Spanish lost a battle during the conquest of Peru. In 1536, the army of Manco Inca held off a Spanish invasion company led by Hernando Pizarro. After a short walk through the village we were left on our own to explore the area for a few hours. I took the opportunity to climb up the huge terraces guarding the ancient hilltop temple area giving a beautiful overview of the valley and village below.
Ollantaytambo is the kick off point for visitors wishing to see Macho Picchu either by foot or by train. Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a strenuous three day adventure so needless to say, instead we boarded Inca Rail heading through the beautiful canyon bottom. The train ride takes a bit less than two hours and offers spectacular views into the gorge of the Urubamba River. There are no roads into this area so visitors have to arrive either by train or trail, still they handle a staggering amount of folks wishing to see these marvelous ruins. The train delivered us to the town of Aguas Calientes, from which we then boarded busses following a zigzagging dirt route up the steep canyon walls to the ruins. Arriving at the site in the mid afternoon gave us a few hours to explore with our local guide and learn about the history. It seemed crowded at the time but little did we know that many of the visitors had already left the site heading back down canyon – we would be back the next morning along with the masses of visitors.
“It’s an irritating reality that many places and events defy description. Angkor Wat and Machu Picchu, for instance, seem to demand silence, like a love affair you can never talk about. For a while after,you fumble for words, trying vainly to assemble a private narrative, an explanation, a comfortable way to frame where you’ve been and whats happened. In the end, you’re just happy you were there- with your eyes open- and lived to see it.” ― Anthony Bourdain
In the Quechua language, “Machu Picchu” means “Old Peak” or “Old Mountain.” And the mountain Machu Picchu rises above the city as only an Apu (powerful mountain spirit) of the greatest power can. (More about those mountain spirits in my next post!)
Machu Picchu the city was erected in a very special place, on a high jungle level, very different from others on which the Incans used to build. Although the terrain looks very rough, they chose the least vulnerable and most beautiful area. It is made up of more than 150 buildings ranging from baths and houses to temples and sanctuaries.
The compound contains more than 100 separate flights of stairs. Most of the individual staircases were carved from one slab of stone. Although many of the stones that were used to build the city were more than 50 pounds, it is believed that no wheels were used to transport these rocks up the mountain. Rather, it is thought that hundreds of men pushed the heavy rocks up the steep mountainside. The construction started between 1450 and 1460 AD and was believed to last over several generations.
“It is its sensational beauty that gives it a sacred character.” – Luis E. Valcarcel
The Incas were some of the best masons in the world. The structures were so well built with a technique called ashlar (a dry masonry technique where stones are cut to fit together without mortar) that not even a knife blade can fit in between stones and they were extremely resistant to damage by earthquakes. This architectural structure was perfectly built to allow it to face the constant challenge of gravity and withstand loads due to water pressure as well as those of the soil and earthquake pressure.
The greatest deterioration to historic sites is caused by rainfall and the weathering caused by water damage. The drainage system designed by the Incans including the benched terraces, faults and cracks to favor drainage, moats and canals and the fact that all exposed surfaces are slightly slanted towards the outside keep water from pooling no matter how hard the rainfall have secured the existence of this important site.
“In the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I know of no place in the world which can compare with it. Not only has it great snow peaks looming above the clouds more than two miles overhead, gigantic precipices of many-colored granite rising sheer for thousands of feet above the foaming, glistening, roaring rapids; it has also, in striking contrast, orchids and tree ferns, the delectable beauty of luxurious vegetation, and the mysterious witchery of the jungle.” – Hiram Bingham
Machu Picchu was only known locally until Yale Professor Hiram Bingham re-discovered the site in 1911. His book, The Lost City of the Incas, was based on his findings. A long-standing dispute between Peru and Yale University existed over the artifacts collected by Bingham during his exploration of the site. For many years Yale maintained that they own the items while Peru insisted they were given on loan. Yale University and the Government of Peru reached a historic accord in November 2010 for the return to Peru of the archaeological materials excavated by Hiram Bingham III at Machu Picchu nearly a century earlier, a great example of international cooperation.
Machu Picchu was believed to have been an astronomical observatory, and the Temple of the Sun was thought to be an astronomical observatory used in setting the Incan calendar. During the solstice each June 21st the first ray of the sun directly enters through the north-east window of the temple and shines light on the carved rock inside.
Our first afternoon was spent touring the site with our guide, trying to take in all that this fantastic location has to offer. As I mentioned previously, although it seemed fairly crowded that afternoon, it was nothing compared to the numbers of people the next morning when we continued our visit. Even so, the National Park does a great job of managing the huge numbers of visitors to the site. Some parts were closed off for stabilization and staff was working as we watched. There were also a number of Rangers patrolling the site as well as good signage keeping people off sensitive areas.
I couldn’t resist having a photo taken with one of the Peruvian Rangers even as I sympathized with the difficult job he had communicating to such a diverse crowd from all over the world.
Taking the bus back down the mountain we spent the night at a very nice hotel in Aguas Calientes, a remote town housing local folks as well as tourists staying overnight to visit the famous ruins. It was a fun place to wander around in that evening, stopping for a cup of coffee and taking in the sights and sounds of the area before heading back up to Machu Picchu the next morning.
The plan for day two was to do the famous hike along the Inca Trail up to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku). Not a terribly long hike (about a mile each way) but it did involve some steep sections and drop offs. The Sun Gate (Inti Punku) is at the top of a mountain overlooking Machu Picchu. It was believed Inti Punku was the control gate where imperial guards controlled access for anyone entering or exiting the citadel in the days of the Inca Empire.
The trail follows an original stone-stepped Inca Trail, first through some beautiful agricultural terraces. You steadily climb up about 950 feet to the summit of the mountain where the Sun Gate is located at an elevation of 8,924 feet high above Machu Picchu with great views of the windy road leading up to the site. Just over half our group chose to make the pilgrimage and we were rewarded with amazing views of Machu Picchu and the awesome mountains surrounding us. It felt like quite an accomplishment, and gazing down at Machu Picchu and the surrounding Andes something we will long remember.
“The truth is that Machu Picchu is always going to be something of a mystery. Which is, of course, part of its allure. Everyone that visits the citadel in the clouds inevitably follows in Bingham’s footsteps – not only by walking the same paths that the explorer trod, but by projecting whatever vision it is they hope to see on the lost city.” – Mark Adams “Turn Right at Machu Picchu”
Unfortunately, most cities built by the Inca civilization were destroyed by the Spanish conquest. Machu Picchu was in a hidden location—invisible from below—and not found, making it one of the most well-preserved Inca cities and an archeological gem. Definitely deserving of the “New Seven Wonders” designation and something we should all experience in our lifetime.
Wow. You’ve left my travels – and my life – in the dust! Your pictures are incredible. And you got there by train? Would love to know more about your itinerary. Were you part of a group?
Your adventures are amazing!
kris
Thanks Kris
Traveled this time with Overseas Adventure Travel company. Was the Machu Picchu & Galapagos trip.
It’s always been on my bucket list. I’m glad I can read about how much you enjoy it.
Wow! Amazing trip and photos. Love traveling with you on your many adventures. Keep it up and take care.
Awesome trip, your blog is really informative and the pictures are priceless