“It is hereby declared to be the policy of the United States that certain selected rivers of the nation which, with their immediate environments, possess outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural or other similar values, shall be preserved in free-flowing condition, and that they and their immediate environments shall be protected for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.” – Wild and Scenic Rivers Act October 2, 1968
The Rogue River was one of the original eight rivers included in the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. With its famous steelhead and salmon fishing, challenging whitewater, and extraordinary wildlife-viewing opportunities, the Rogue River continues to be one of the world’s most popular recreation destinations. The 34-mile Wild section churns through the steep rock walls of Mule Creek Canyon and the boulder-strewn Blossom Bar Rapids and features predominantly Class III (or less) rapids, and includes thundering Rainie Falls (Class V) and the breathtaking rapids at Mule Creek Canyon (Class III) and Blossom Bar (Class IV).
“I see an America whose rivers and valleys and lakes – hills and streams and plains – the mountains over our land and nature’s wealth deep under the earth – are protected as the rightful heritage of all the people.” – Franklin D. Roosevelt
So a little context to this current adventure, it all started back in October when I made the trek up to Sacramento to celebrate my birthday with some swimmer friends by swimming my annual age based 100’s. This year the goal was to swim Fifty Three 100’s to celebrate 53 years of life – for my non swimmer friends this means 212 laps in a 25 yard long pool. About a two hour workout and a bit challenging for this swimmer who hasn’t spent much time in the pool the last few months! Thanks to those hearty souls (Bill, Nancy, Garnier and Dennis) who helped provide the motivation to complete this year’s goal.
But what would a trip to Sacramento be without a visit to one of the great local breweries. Pam and Victoria joined me to round out the celebration that evening and it was during this beer induced casual conversation that I got myself invited to a four day whitewater rafting trip on the Rogue River (Oregon). Not to take all this fun for myself I quickly texted Mark (who was then in Hawaii completing his last 5k in every state) to invite him along for the adventure.
So Mark and I (the river newbies) joined a motley crew of rafters for an epic journey also known as the “Rogue River Pumpkin Run”.
Just a few weeks later Mark made his way back from Hawaii via New Mexico and Southern California and we converged in Sacramento to head for the Rogue adventure.
Our “put in” location was Almeda Bar (about half an hour outside of Grants Pass) and after spending the night at the campground there it was time to rise and shine to hit the river. Packing the rafts involves assembling what looked like pieces from one, two, or even three different complex puzzles, into a semblance of order and then load all of it into the rafts. It seemed unlikely that everything was going to fit in the rafts but leave it to the pros and fully stocked we hit the river.
Water is of course vital to life, although of course most people in the First World take it for granted, and as a result awareness of its importance has declined. In Ancient Greece though, the value of water was recognized, and as a result every water source had its own deity. Major gods, like Poseidon, Oceanus and Nereus were given dominion over the major waterways, the seas, but smaller sources, like rivers had their own gods, the Potamoi. Potamoi were not simply gods associated with rivers, but they could also be strong characters quick to anger, and yet at the same time, Potamoi were also considered to be the protectors of the young. Why is this important? Well as an amateur rafter I spent quite a bit of time sending positive thoughts to those river “gods” hoping they would keep me safe and upright on the journey especially as I had decided to paddle an inflatable kayak on day one.
One of the first of many river “hazards” beginning paddlers encounter is the current itself. Smooth, nondescript flowages of water can suddenly twirl and tumble causing disruptions in the surface and counter currents that can spin a boat around. Rocks can create a wide array of challenges that disrupt the smooth water of passage. They can be giant granite monsters squatting defiantly right in front of us. They can be a string of boulders, clustered together in such a way so as to form a gentle series of riffles, or a continuous set of waves (like a series of water whoops called a wave train). They can also turn the current into a churning cascade of turbulent water. Ideally we work our way through them, sometimes bouncing off or tumbling over submerged rocks planted I am sure by those angry river gods.
Key to navigation is learning to “read” the river to tell us which course to take through a rapids such as the downstream pointing “V”-shaped flow of smooth water that indicates a clear channel through the rocks. Conversely we learn that rocks lying just under the surface causing that water to boil and tumble forms an upstream pointing “V” – a sign of caution for most especially the new paddler.
Day one was awesome and adrenaline filled, some calm water interspersed with a few class II and possibly even a class III rapid to keep us communicating with those river gods. Campsites along the river are beautiful with great views right from your tent.
At night the moon came up barely reaching above the tree covered canyon hillsides and leaving shimmering light trails along the river.
The first few nights were clear and offered great opportunities to experiment with night photography.
Day two on the river was certainly a bit more exciting and those river gods apparently decided it was time for me to take a swim (or two). The first was at Montgomery Rapids (really, this was only a Class II?) and after being “rescued” a bit downriver I climbed back into the kayak, cold and wet but ready to hit it again.
The second swim was at Lower Black Bar Falls (at least this one was a Class III) and after getting tumbled through this boulder strewn section to finally be plucked out of the water by Jerry and Jason I was ready to finish the day in Jason’s raft. As I caught my breath I snapped a photo of Jason and in the background caught Victoria carrying my kayak that had just been retrieved from the rivers grasp.
“Do one thing everyday that scares you.” – Eleanor Roosevelt
Day three (I had given up the kayak by this time) when tree covered hillsides gave way to narrowing rock walls, pushing the river up and us with it; here we were in Mule Creek Canyon, one of the most beautiful parts of the Rogue River experience.
Mule Creek was named in the summer of 1852 when a company of soldiers from Fort Orford tried to open a trail along the Rogue. A member of the party later related that a Lt. R.S. Williamson rode a mule named John. When the mule was turned loose to graze near the stream, it wandered off and was not found despite a thorough search. Because of this incident, the stream was named John Mule Creek, but later shortened to Mule Creek. The tale ended happily several years later when Williamson found his mule.
As the rock walls towered above us, I could not only see, but feel the change in the water; the remaining rapids subsided, leaving in their wake what looked like a boiling pot of coffee, beautiful blue in color. There was barely enough room for our rafts, let alone oars, so trying to navigate around this area was near to impossible.
Once the valley flattened out, and we regained full control of our rafts, we were only given a short amount of time until our next big venture: Blossom Bar, the notoriously tricky, and often dangerous (if done wrong), part of the Rogue.
“I gave my heart to the mountains the minute I stood beside this river with its spray in my face and watched it thunder into foam, smooth to green glass over sunken rocks, shatter to foam again. I was fascinated by how it sped by and yet was always there; its roar shook both the earth and me.” – Wallace Stegner
Blossom Bar, 24.8 miles downriver from Grave Creek, is named after the wild azaleas that adorn this area in the springtime. Blossom Bar is the Wild Rogue River’s most famous and feared rapid. Once a portage, this boulder garden was blasted with dynamite to make a passable route. Although now passable, the route requires much maneuvering to avoid serious wraps, flips, and swims. In very general terms, the keys to success here are: (1) starting far left, (2) moving to a center eddy above the dreaded “Picket Fence,” (3) edging right around a corner rock and entering the “pour over,” and (4) playing “dodge ‘em” through the rest of the rapid. Needless to say I was too busy holding on to take any photos!
As we approached Blossom Bar there were quite a few rafts pulled over along the river with rafters lining the rocks high above the rapid “scouting” the route through the maze. We generated quite a few incredulous looks as we cruised on past following Victoria’s lead as she shouted, “just follow me”.
Here I have to shout out kudos to Victoria – a seasoned river rafter with a love for all things adventurous and one of the happiest people that I know. Her knowledge of the river was spot on and she navigated a path through the dangerous rapids like it was no problem. All of the rafters in our group were excellent watermen (and women) and it was a pleasure traveling the river with them all. They took a couple of newbies (Mark and I) under their wings and not only invited us on to their rafts but helped to educate us while giving us time at the oars.
Those last two days with the kayak safely deflated and stowed on Victoria’s boat I joined Rusty in his oar boat. Rusty is another premier waterman with a great background in whitewater and a keen ability to read the river. I had a couple of opportunities to take the oars and navigate the river with Rusty’s guidance – actually navigating some of the Class II rapids.
“I have never seen a river that I could not love. Moving water…has a fascinating vitality. It has power and grace and associations. It has a thousand colors and a thousand shapes, yet it follows laws so definite that the tiniest streamlet is an exact replica of a great river.” – Roderick HaigBrown
It’s important to take step back and really appreciate the beauty of mother nature that surrounds you, especially along the Rogue River. The alluring river surrounded by trees turning red, yellow and orange with fall color and the steep canyon walls are sure to capture your heart. Picture perfect scenery is all around you, this alone makes a trip down the Rogue worth it. You’ll find yourself captivated by the beauty that seems to engulf you. The river is stunning and captivating as well as unnerving and at times terrifying.
Scattered rocks from years of fluctuating river flows make up the vast majority of the rapids, as we approached each rapid I could begin to feel the anxiety building in my chest – but on second thought, this might actually be adrenaline.
“The adrenaline and stress of an adventure are better than a thousand peaceful days.” – Paul Coelho
Adrenaline pumping action is one of things most people don’t get enough of. The thrill of crashing through waves, being bucked in the air, and going toe to toe against the elements causes your adrenaline to flow and for you to truly feel alive. Motion is life itself, while stagnation is death; rafters know this intuitively and live it on each river trip.
After your rafting adventure you may feel like you conquered nature and overcame one of its bigger challenges. There’s nothing quite like it. The still of the earth and sound of silence echoing in your ears. It is ironic how much more alive you feel when your heart skips a few beats.
Regardless, this craving for wild, unedited, technology-less, and water filled fun, pulls me deep to the heart of who I am, what I love, and how much the outdoors really means to me. Not only that, but I get to spend time with friends old and new, what more could you ask for in an adventure.
“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing” – Helen Keller
There is much in this life to experience, and there is much in this life you should experience. You only live once and you have to make the most of that limited time. If whitewater rafting was not worth the time spent doing it, there would not be as many enjoying the sport as there is. It’s thrilling, enjoyable, memorable, and entirely worth every second spent doing it.
“Anything that gets your blood racing is probably worth doing.” – Hunter S. Thompson
The Rogue River affords views including a wide diversity of plant and animal life while cruising down the watery path. This is of course, in between the moments of excitement and pure wonderment over the beauty of the landscape.
Beyond all these other factors, whitewater rafting is simply enjoyable, in every sense of that word. Rarely will a moment pass where you are not enjoying yourself, which is the reason so many people are clamoring for the sport that they have to give out permits during the season by lottery. It fulfills so many desires and experiences we wish to have that there is no reason not to. If you are looking for a way to enjoy yourself, thoroughly, please, for your own sake, plan a trip and hit the river. It is certainly something you will not soon forget.
Thanks to all you river rafting friends who shared this adventure and special thanks to Scott for putting it all together. Rivers can create bonds that I am sure we will remember for life.
“The care of rivers is not a question of rivers, but of the human heart.” – Tanako Shozo
An absolutely awesome description of our adventure. Great photo journalism Dana. I’m ready to do it again😊